TripSailor.com® Sailing Blogs

07,12.10E 099,03.90E

Dear Friends and Family,

We’re now in Thailand. We had light and variable wind leaving Telaga, but some of it was outstanding. We even got a few hours sailing under the spinnaker. Our first night’s anchorage at Ko Rawi was not particluarly remarkable, but the crystal clear water was a wonderful improvement over the murky jelly-fish filled Malaysia waters. Our sail from Ko Rawi to Ko Rok Nok was again mostly light and variable, but still pleasant. On arrival, we tied up to a mooring and after getting SD squared away, we jumped into the inviting warm, clear water. We enjoyed sundowners in the cockpit while watching a local boat with a dozen or so passengers pick up a nearby mooring and set the snorkelers afloat. As the tide was ebbing,the boat driver waited a few moments too long to exit the area, and soon the boat was on the reef. As we watched, the passengers resignedly packed parcels ashore, and the whole shebang looks like they are stuck on the beach til high tide tomorrow. The exodus of passengers and gear looked like a taping of an episode of “Survivor”! (Or cue “Gilligan’s Island” theme in the background.)It appears that for us it will be a pleasant evening (hopefully no drama) and tomorrow we plan on spending a lot of the day snorkeling the nearby reef. So far, Thailand has not disappointed!

Cheers! K and K

To see where we are, click on the “Map” tab. We can be reached at: SandDollar_N4KS@yahoo.com\

Dear Friends and Family,

We arrived in Bass Harbor, Kuah on a clear sunny day, after weaving our way among some of the lovely little tree-covered rock islands that make up the Langkawi group. The water was pale green and a few white-bellied sea eagles cruised lazily overhead as we made our way along the south shore of the big island, Pulau Langkawi.

A few miles later, we dropped our hook not far from the dinghy landing near Kuah Town, among more than a dozen other yachts sporting flags from multiple nations. By pure happenstance we had anchored next to another American yacht, “Sunflower”, whose crew, Beth and Al, are fellow SSCA Commodores and have been featured multiple times in Cruising World magazine. They immediately dinghied over for quick welcome and returned later to share delicious home made cookies and tidbits of local knowledge.

We put SD in order, rigged our awning and relaxed a bit, then rowed ashore in the evening, as the afternoon heat subsided. Wandering in search of a cold beer, we were coming up empty when we spotted a Carlsberg sign at an establishment called “Ray’s Place”. Once inside we found a bar, two small inquisitive poodles, a pool table, walls painted with colorful murals, and two fellow yachties sharing a table. The were no other customers, and the proprietress, Ray, was back in the kitchen fixing dinner. The yachties introduced themselves as John and Dave and invited us to sit with them as John fetched us two icy cold beers. We got acquainted and swapped stories as more customers arrived. Eventually we met Ray herself, who greeted us warmly and invited us to share a salad and casserole. It was delicious, home-cooked, and very reasonably priced, and Ray’s Place became our regular watering hole during our time in Kuah. Later, our row back to SD in the dark put us in mind of our days back in Majuro, rowing through the anchorage amongst the twinkling of everyone’s anchor lights.

The following morning we were ashore soon after coffee with multiple missions. We had chat with Erja at her canvas shop about having a new dodger made for SD. We then walked through the shady beachside park toward the ferry terminal to check in, but made a detour when we encountered a McDonald’s enroute. Fortified with burgers and Diet Cokes, we continued on to the harbor master’s office at the terminal. “Jeti Point”, as the terminal is known, is a busy ferry hub, serving multiple ports in Malaysia and Thailand. Langkawi is a popular tourist destination, offering wildlife tours, marine parks, and duty-free shopping.

Our days in Kuah unfolded lazily as we fell into a loose semblance of a routine. We’d share our morning coffee in the cockpit as we watched the harbor wake up. Yachties would zip by in their dinghies on their way to shore, tour boats would roar past, full of passengers in orange life jackets, and the assorted ferries would rumble to life and jockey for position at the ferry piers.

Mid-morning was for Katie’s dinghy-rowing and Ken’s computer time for downloads, updates, weather, and info-gathering. We’d usually head to shore around noon, and there always seems to be something on our to-do list. Different days found us on errands to the chart shop, supermarket, the duty-free store, the yacht chandlery, and the computer shop, where we purchased a replacement for our recently expired printer.

We’d be home by late afternoon, usually having had lunch ashore, and once back on SD, it was chill-out time. We’d read, nap, swim, and wait for the fierce afternoon heat to subside. As the sun finally dipped toward the sea, we’d move to the bow or the cockpit to enjoy the cool of the evening with our sundowners, often listening to one of our podcast radio shows Ken had downloaded to the computer, with “Car Talk” being our favorite!. It’s a rough life, but we try to keep a positive attitude!

Aside from jaunts to shore, there were boat chores to tend to, such as the day Ken rowed out to the little bunker ship to refill our diesel jugs. We’d take turns rowing ashore to fetch fresh water from a little spigot under the casuarina trees on the beach, and we worked on our charts and routes for Thailand. Ken would occasionally grab a mask, snorkel, and brush, and hop in the water to clean SD’s bottom, much to the delight of our resident school of 3-inch fish, who followed him around to snack on the marine growth he dislodged. These two dozen or so little fish were always under the boat, and we could hear them through the hull, making comical little kissing sounds as they nibbled at the algae on the bottom.

After a few weeks we sailed about 15 miles up the east coast and into the Kilim river. A little side creek there is home to “Hole in the Wall”, a fish farm, restaurant, and yacht mooring facility. We’re considering possibilities for leaving SD for the summer, and wanted to check this place in person. The area is tranquil, protected, and quiet, except for the dozens of little tour boats whizzing to and fro like a swarm of water bugs. We spent one night near Hole in the Wall, but moved the next day to a charming, secluded anchorage between two islands, off the tour boat route. The following morning we lounged around, waiting for the tide to turn and give us a fair current back to Bass Harbor. Suddenly we realized, seasoned mariners that we are, that we had calculated the tides backwards (!), but we happily realized our error in time to catch the tail end of our favorable current. As we rounded the final turn approaching Bass Harbor, we were startled to see half a dozen rafts headed seaward. Each individual raft was constructed of three kayaks lashed together, and was manned by nine Muslim women, all of them wearing sunglasses, black hijab, and bright orange life jackets. It was an unforgettable, albeit mysterious, sight.

By the time we’d been in Bass Harbor for three weeks, it was time start getting ready for Thailand. We weighed anchor and sailed nine miles west. We had a delightful downwind sail all the way, a refreshing change from the many miles of motoring we’d done up the Malacca Straits. We love our engine, but we’re sailors, and the quiet snap of a well-trimmed sail is music to our ears. We anchored for two nights under the forested limestone cliffs of a group of small islands before heading north for the three-mile run to Rebak Island Marina.

Our good friends from Majuro, Americans Nick and Bonnie on “Rise and Shine”, are berthed at Rebak busily engaged in some extensive boat work. We hadn’t seen them since 2009 but we’d bumped into each other one day at the supermarket in Kuah, so they knew we were planning a stop at Rebak. Nick took our bow lines as Ken eased SD smoothly into her berth, then said he would see us later at the pool.

We went through the usual “arrival” routine: square away the boat, check in at the office, wash the decks, rig the awning, and then we did indeed made a bee-line for the pool.

Rebak is a resort, so its grounds boast lush tropical landscaping and upscale amenities. The pool sits surrounded by palms and casuarinas, with the resort on one side and the sandy beach on the other. The exotic cocktails offered at the pool bar were not in our budget, but the pool was deliciously refreshing and the cabana boy gave us fluffy towels for our lounge chairs.

We made the most of our three days at Rebak; the marina has self-service washers, so we were able to catch up on our laundry, hanging it all in the rigging to dry in the hot sun. We also had an opportunity to re-unite with our old friends Mike and Jan, who have their yacht “Don Henry” on the hard while Mike makes osmosis repairs on her hull. The little “Harbor Store” on the premises carried ice, so we treated ourselves to iced sundowners on Valentine’s Day. We lounged in the shade on SD’s bow, with nibbles of apples and cheese, watching the magnificent hornbills that flew between the palm trees.

On our third and final evening, we joined Nick and Bonnie for dinner at the Hard Dock Cafe. The hours flew by and the rum disappeared as we swapped cruising tips and sea stories, and we didn’t say goodnight until almost 10 pm.

The following morning we “released the ducklings” at 11:30, bound four miles north for Telaga Harbor. We dropped our hook in the anchorage outside the marina, and dinghied to the beach for a look-see. We found that we were just offshore of an elegant five-star resort, which is incongruously situated right beside an unfenced field where a bunch of cows lazily nibble at what’s left of the grass. Beyond the resort and the cows lies the marina, chock full of expensive-looking yachts.

One morning the cows opted for a morning stroll along the resort’s beach, prompting a staff member to employ a slingshot to hurry them on their bovine way. Another day, in a likewise entertaining “Animal Planet”-type moment, we saw a monkey atop the tiled front door overhang of a souvenir shop. Standing upright on his hind legs, he placed his front paws on the sill of a second-story window and peered in, looking for all the world like a hairy Peeping Tom.

As our Malaysia visas are now expiring, we’ll be on our way to Thailand, the land of 100,000 smiles. Sparkling waters, lovely islands, legendary food, and new adventures are looming large on our horizon!

All the best, K and K

“Already we are boldly launched upon the deep; but soon we shall be lost in its unshored, harborless immensities.” – H. Melville, 1851

To see where we are, click on the “Map” tab. We can be reached at: SandDollar_N4KS@yahoo.com

Anchored here on our way back to Kuah Town – beautiful spot! (see map)

We anchored here. Will park SD here for our Summer return to the States.

On our first morning in Penang, we woke early in the quiet cove where we’d anchored the previous day, at a little islet just south of the big island of Penang. We lingered over coffee as we waited for the tide to turn and give us a fair current.x

When we got underway, we motored north, with the mainland industrial town of Butterworth on our starboard side, and the high-rises and businesses of Pulau Penang on our port. A few big ships traveled north and south in the ship channel to the east, and car ferries busily crisscrossed the water ahead of us at regular intervals.x

Although it is Malaysia’s smallest state, Penang is the oldest of the British straits settlements, pre-dating both Melaka and Singapore. Georgetown is its capital, and while it certainly has its share of shopping malls, pubs, boutiques, and traffic congestion, it also has countless vestiges of its colorful past. Narrow alleyways, colonial-era architecture, tumbledown hawker stalls, temples, tea houses, Chinese mansions, and a busy Little India district all combine in a rich culture mix. x

Our destination was the new Straits Quay Marina on the northeast corner of the island. This marina is part of a new upscale complex comprising the marina itself and a six-story building that surrounds the marina on three sides. The first two floors house a variety of high-end shops and about a dozen pubs and restaurants; the upper floors contain residential apartments and a performing arts center. x

Most of the boats in the 40-slip marina were big and expensive-looking, like the 76-foot sail yacht we were berthed behind. Pretty fast company for our Sand Dollar, who looked down right petite amongst the big boys! (see photo) x

The staff were very pleasant and helpful, and the marina accoutrements included a yachtie lounge with A.C., free Wi-Fi, and a book swap. The clean showers were a treat, as was the dockside hose bib; it’s the last we’ll see for a long time! A short walk away was a clean and well-stocked supermarket, situated in a small mall that also houses a McDonald’s. We’ve become addicted to Mickey D’s ice cream, and often treated ourselves on our way home from the nearby bus stop. x

We planned a week-long stay in Penang, and managed to fill every one of our days. There’s lots to see, but there’s also lots to eat, so we opted to combine our experiences to enjoy the cultural and culinary offerings without being rushed or feeling exhausted. x

One of our first and favorite lunches was at the Jit Seng Duck Rice hawker stall, a favorite among locals. Duck rice is just what it sounds like: perfectly seasoned roasted duck with a crisp skin and moist juicy meat, topped with a rich spicy-sweet gravy. A generous serving comes accompanied by rice and a clear soup. We quenched our thirst with refreshingly spicy iced nutmeg juice. Other memorable lunches included juicy tandoori chicken in Little India and a few exquisitely spiced selections from a Thai stall in a streetside hawker food court. x

When we weren’t scarfing down local goodies we managed to fit in a bit of sightseeing. We spent several hours in the Penang Museum, a comprehensive walk-through of the history and culture of Penang’s various settler groups. Its many exhibits include elaborate traditional wedding costumes and intricately carved opium beds inlaid with mother of pearl. x

Most of our sightseeing involved walking around, window-shopping and people-watching. Chinese New Year was fast approaching and the whole island seemed decked out in red-and-gold lanterns, decorations, and good-luck tokens. A favorite watering hole for a mid-day break over a cold beer was the tiny Hong Kong Bar which has been a favorite with Aussie servicemen since 1920. No servicemen were present when we stopped in, but the walls were full of WWII memorabilia. The charming Chinese hostess/owner introduced us to tau sa piah, a walnut-sized flaky biscuit with a delicate filling of mung bean paste. We became instant addicts, and they’re perfect with our morning coffee. x

We spent one day on a visit to the Thai consulate to procure our visas for Thailand. This involved standing in a long line of other visa applicants (thankfully, in a shady garden) before handing over our passports, documents, and money to one of the officials. He couldn’t accept the computer-printed extra passport photos we’d brought, but no worries. An on-the-spot photographer in a van was stationed at the curb, and in ten minutes we each had eight hard-copy photos. We didn’t have to join the queue again, but went right to the front of the line, as directed by the official, who told us to return at 1530 to pick up our visas. This was a nice surprise, as we’d expected to have to return the following day, So we went off for lunch and returned at the appointed time. x

At the end of our week we planned an early morning departure so we could complete the 54 miles to our Langkawi destination before sundown. x

We were up at 0500, had our coffee, and were ready to go by 0600. (sidebar: on a previous Tripsailor posting, I had typed the phrase “we released the docklines”, but the computer didn’t like the word “docklines”, and its auto-correct suggestion was “ducklings”. This created such a whimsically humorous mental image for me that I’ve decided to adopt it. So….) At 06:15 we released the ducklings and motored out of the marina. x

It was still pitch-black out, and one of the first things we encountered was, of course, a large fishing boat with a net. There ensued much flashing of spotlights between our two vessels, and the fishermen finally relaxed as they realized that we’d pass ahead of them, keeping clear of their trailing net. We crossed within a few yards of their bows, with all of us calling our hellos and good-mornings across the water. x

We had a fairly unpleasant travel day. The expected fair current never materialized, and the sky was leaden, with heavy overcast and looming purple clouds ahead. The wind stubbornly stayed on our nose, and we were motor-sailing through a lively little chop that made for a bumpy ride. At one point, fighting wind and chop, our speed was down to 3.8 knots, and we considered a detour to a closer island. But suddenly conditions began to improve, and by the time we tucked into our Langkawi anchorage, we finally had sunshine and blue skies. x

Langkawi is actually a group of 99 islands, dominated by the largest, Pulau Langkawi. We had arrived in the late afternoon in a little cove at one of the southernmost islands, Pulau Dayang Bunting. Our quiet bay was surrounded on three sides by craggy limestone cliffs covered with trees and jungle foliage. A few monkeys wandered along a little crescent of sandy beach, and white-bellied sea eagles cruised overhead, ever on the lookout for a nice fish dinner. x

At sunset, we toasted our passage with the last of our French wine, and concluded that we’re going to like Langkawi!

To see where we are, click on the “Map” tab. To see our pictures, click on the “Photos” tab. We can be reached at: sanddollar_n4ks@yahoo.com

2nd Langkawi anchorage. Outstanding!

First night anchorage. Beautiful!

On arrival at Pulau Pangkor, we anchored in a little bay on the southeast side of the island, positioned with front row seats for viewing the fishing boat traffic and village life ashore. The following day we rowed to a tiny beach, walked into the waterfront town, and rented a motorbike. The island is small and a trip around the perimeter takes a little less than an hour. The road is paved, and winds past some postcard-pretty bays and through quiet areas of shady jungle, where we saw monkeys perched on the low roadside wall. We rode twice around, stopping for lunch and ice cream. The west side of the island has several beautiful bays and beaches, which are popular with tourists and which offer rentals of kayaks and jet skis, as well as boat tours around the island. Eastern Pulau Pangkor is the industrial side. The waterfront is packed cheek to jowl with ferries and various types of fishing boats. We spent two enjoyable days at Pangkor and were preparing to head up a nearby river, when on a whim, we decided to stop at a new marina resort just across the channel from our bay. It turned out to be a good move. x

Marina Island Pangkor is the name of this charming marina, which was about 2/3 full with assorted yachts, big power boats, and local fishing or dive tour boats. It has clean facilities, clean water, helpful staff, and a dynamic and efficient young director named James Khoo. James was a veritable encyclopedia of local knowledge, and was generous with his time and helpful tips.

We met fellow yachties from Australia and Canada, and became instant friends. We were invited aboard two lovely boats for sundowners and stories, and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. Our initial plan was to stay two days to water ship, do laundry, and assess the marina. However, friends tipped us off to a canvas shop in the town where we could get a broken zipper replaced on our dodger. The owners were finishing another project, and estimated that they’d have ours done in a week, so we extended our stay, and managed to fill our days with projects that we’d forgotten we had. The ferry terminal is beside the marina, and nearby there are hawker stalls for delicious cheap local food, and a convenience store for cold beer. x

After spending eight enjoyable and fruitful days at the marina, we got underway at first light for the passage to Pulau Penang. It is a 75-mile passage and we decided to break it up into two days. The short travel days would allow us to sail only during the time when the current was favorable, with the added bonus of daylight for optimum visibility of those pesky fishing nets. We got lucky the first day and had a following wind and sea. However, we didn’t get lucky with the spot where we chose to anchor, because a few hours after dropping the hook, we were inundated with drift nets. By this time, the current was fair again, so we weighed anchor and put some more miles in towards our destination. Just as well, because an ominous-looking navy blue squall line had appeared on the horizon to our north. Dirty grey clouds boiled above the darkness, and the system was headed our way. Our course had us heading west, parallel to the front, and we zipped along under jib and single-reefed main as it loomed closer and streaks of cloud-to-ground lightning made bright gold seams in the dark front. We battened down the hatches, but as the system closed in on us, it had already spent most of its venom, and although we got thoroughly drenched, there was no drama as it moved on and gave way to a clear blue evening sky. x

Close to sunset, we picked another spot to anchor that was several miles off shore and not near a river mouth. We rewarded our efforts with wine and cheese, and topped off the evening with some pretty tasty hot chocolate while we listened to some podcasts that Ken had downloaded. We got lucky and had a restful net-free night. The lights of a few fishing boats twinkled in the clear night, but they were far off on the horizon. A bright moon rose in the east, and we could even see stars (Orion) and planets (Jupiter) overhead. At first light we weighed anchor to complete the 20-mile passage to Penang. This time we had light headwinds and head seas, but with the fair current giving us a nice boost we still made very good time. However, upon entering the Penang channel, things got butt-ugly, with a short-spaced chop and a moderate wind right on the nose. We decided to exit stage left, and we anchored in a beautiful little bay on the southeast side of Pulau Rimau (see map). Too bad we can’t swim, because we can see quite a few jellyfish, so it’ll be cockpit showers again tonight. We’ll spend the night here before pushing on to the hubbub of Penang. There is another new marina resort here that we hope to check out. x

To see where we are, click on the “Map” tab. To see out photos, click on the “Photos” tab. When we have internet access, we can be reached at: sanddollar_n4ks@yahoo.com

Happy New Year from the good ship Sand Dollar! We spent it on the Bernam River, and a busy river it is, with all kinds of fishing boats to-ing and fro-ing. We were anchored near to a small grove of trees that evidently had great appeal for a large flock of birds. They had selected it to roost in and from its branches they made a big ruckus morning and evening. We didn’t mind it though; it sure beat karaoke!

We got underway this morning at 0900 and rode the ebb tide down the river. Soon after getting some sea room, we experienced a small, short-spaced swell just ahead of the beam. And to top it all off, there wasn’t any wind; the sea was like glass. We flew the mainsail to help dampen the roll. But no complaints, the swell could have been on the nose! We got a little boost from the current and averaged 5.3 knots SOG (speed over ground) for the 32-mile passage.

Once we were clear of the fishing fleet and their pesky nets, we had a fairly monotonous passage. But we’ll take monotony over the “thrill” of heavy weather any day! Several times we spotted one odd type of long-ish, narrow fish that would leap to the surface and skip across the top of the wavelets on its tail! Mystifying and peculiar, but quite entertaining. We also occasionally passed small flocks of little terns, bobbing on the surface like a bunch of bathtub toys. They were cute as the dickens, but they haven’t got much sense. As Sand Dollar neared a flock, the birds would get nervous and take off, but they’d invariably settle down again about 100 yards directly ahead of us. Naturally, every time we approached them, they’d have to repeat the escape plan.

At about 1500, We arrived at a nice little bay on the SW side of Pulau (Malay for island) Pangkor, just on the other side of the channel from Lumut. For a change, the water wasn’t brown, so we took advantage of it and went for a swim to rinse off the grime and cool ourselves down. Ken did some bottom-cleaning on Sand Dollar, which is a never-ending task in these waters. The anchorage is very comfortable, as the swell isn’t getting into the bay. We’re hoping for another good night’s rest. Tomorrow we plan on making the short 2-mile passage to Sungai Dindings and the village of Lumut. This is a destination for us, so we plan on hanging around here for a couple of weeks.

To see where we are, click on the “Map” tab. To see our pictures, click on the “Photos” tab. When we have internet access, we can be reached at sanddollar_n4ks@yahoo.com

We had a little drama at the Pulau Selangor anchorage. Little boats with freakin’ drift nets were all over the place. One got hung up on SD’s anchor rode but the operator was successful in freeing it, albeit with some seriously disgruntled facial expressions! We thought we were done with that, but around 8 PM we noticed we were dragging anchor. huh? Conditions were benign. Well, we weighed anchor and low and behold, there were three nets hung up on the rode below the water. This is what was causing us to drag. Hated to do it, but we cut them free and then re-anchored. These drift nets make it practically impossible to anchor in an open roadstead. We got lucky and no more nets drifted down on us during the night, and we managed to get a good night’s sleep.

Poked my head out of the companionway early the next morning, and sure enough, noticed a boat and net drifting down on us. Hurriedly got underway at 0845 for the 45 mile run to Sungai (Malay for river) Bernam. As usual, we had light headwinds and had to motorsail the whole way. Otherwise, conditions were pretty good, with small wind-waves and the wind picked up to a nice breeze in the afternoon. We were able to unroll the headsail to assist the mainsail. For reasons unknown to us, we didn’t get much of the boost we had expected from the current today.

1745 – anchor down just inside the river. The locals wave to us as they pass in their fishing boats. It’s good to be here.

To see where we are, click on the “Map” tab. To see our pictures, click on the “Photos” tab. We can be reached at sanddollar_n4ks@yahoo.com