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On our first morning in Penang, we woke early in the quiet cove where we’d anchored the previous day, at a little islet just south of the big island of Penang. We lingered over coffee as we waited for the tide to turn and give us a fair current.x

When we got underway, we motored north, with the mainland industrial town of Butterworth on our starboard side, and the high-rises and businesses of Pulau Penang on our port. A few big ships traveled north and south in the ship channel to the east, and car ferries busily crisscrossed the water ahead of us at regular intervals.x

Although it is Malaysia’s smallest state, Penang is the oldest of the British straits settlements, pre-dating both Melaka and Singapore. Georgetown is its capital, and while it certainly has its share of shopping malls, pubs, boutiques, and traffic congestion, it also has countless vestiges of its colorful past. Narrow alleyways, colonial-era architecture, tumbledown hawker stalls, temples, tea houses, Chinese mansions, and a busy Little India district all combine in a rich culture mix. x

Our destination was the new Straits Quay Marina on the northeast corner of the island. This marina is part of a new upscale complex comprising the marina itself and a six-story building that surrounds the marina on three sides. The first two floors house a variety of high-end shops and about a dozen pubs and restaurants; the upper floors contain residential apartments and a performing arts center. x

Most of the boats in the 40-slip marina were big and expensive-looking, like the 76-foot sail yacht we were berthed behind. Pretty fast company for our Sand Dollar, who looked down right petite amongst the big boys! (see photo) x

The staff were very pleasant and helpful, and the marina accoutrements included a yachtie lounge with A.C., free Wi-Fi, and a book swap. The clean showers were a treat, as was the dockside hose bib; it’s the last we’ll see for a long time! A short walk away was a clean and well-stocked supermarket, situated in a small mall that also houses a McDonald’s. We’ve become addicted to Mickey D’s ice cream, and often treated ourselves on our way home from the nearby bus stop. x

We planned a week-long stay in Penang, and managed to fill every one of our days. There’s lots to see, but there’s also lots to eat, so we opted to combine our experiences to enjoy the cultural and culinary offerings without being rushed or feeling exhausted. x

One of our first and favorite lunches was at the Jit Seng Duck Rice hawker stall, a favorite among locals. Duck rice is just what it sounds like: perfectly seasoned roasted duck with a crisp skin and moist juicy meat, topped with a rich spicy-sweet gravy. A generous serving comes accompanied by rice and a clear soup. We quenched our thirst with refreshingly spicy iced nutmeg juice. Other memorable lunches included juicy tandoori chicken in Little India and a few exquisitely spiced selections from a Thai stall in a streetside hawker food court. x

When we weren’t scarfing down local goodies we managed to fit in a bit of sightseeing. We spent several hours in the Penang Museum, a comprehensive walk-through of the history and culture of Penang’s various settler groups. Its many exhibits include elaborate traditional wedding costumes and intricately carved opium beds inlaid with mother of pearl. x

Most of our sightseeing involved walking around, window-shopping and people-watching. Chinese New Year was fast approaching and the whole island seemed decked out in red-and-gold lanterns, decorations, and good-luck tokens. A favorite watering hole for a mid-day break over a cold beer was the tiny Hong Kong Bar which has been a favorite with Aussie servicemen since 1920. No servicemen were present when we stopped in, but the walls were full of WWII memorabilia. The charming Chinese hostess/owner introduced us to tau sa piah, a walnut-sized flaky biscuit with a delicate filling of mung bean paste. We became instant addicts, and they’re perfect with our morning coffee. x

We spent one day on a visit to the Thai consulate to procure our visas for Thailand. This involved standing in a long line of other visa applicants (thankfully, in a shady garden) before handing over our passports, documents, and money to one of the officials. He couldn’t accept the computer-printed extra passport photos we’d brought, but no worries. An on-the-spot photographer in a van was stationed at the curb, and in ten minutes we each had eight hard-copy photos. We didn’t have to join the queue again, but went right to the front of the line, as directed by the official, who told us to return at 1530 to pick up our visas. This was a nice surprise, as we’d expected to have to return the following day, So we went off for lunch and returned at the appointed time. x

At the end of our week we planned an early morning departure so we could complete the 54 miles to our Langkawi destination before sundown. x

We were up at 0500, had our coffee, and were ready to go by 0600. (sidebar: on a previous Tripsailor posting, I had typed the phrase “we released the docklines”, but the computer didn’t like the word “docklines”, and its auto-correct suggestion was “ducklings”. This created such a whimsically humorous mental image for me that I’ve decided to adopt it. So….) At 06:15 we released the ducklings and motored out of the marina. x

It was still pitch-black out, and one of the first things we encountered was, of course, a large fishing boat with a net. There ensued much flashing of spotlights between our two vessels, and the fishermen finally relaxed as they realized that we’d pass ahead of them, keeping clear of their trailing net. We crossed within a few yards of their bows, with all of us calling our hellos and good-mornings across the water. x

We had a fairly unpleasant travel day. The expected fair current never materialized, and the sky was leaden, with heavy overcast and looming purple clouds ahead. The wind stubbornly stayed on our nose, and we were motor-sailing through a lively little chop that made for a bumpy ride. At one point, fighting wind and chop, our speed was down to 3.8 knots, and we considered a detour to a closer island. But suddenly conditions began to improve, and by the time we tucked into our Langkawi anchorage, we finally had sunshine and blue skies. x

Langkawi is actually a group of 99 islands, dominated by the largest, Pulau Langkawi. We had arrived in the late afternoon in a little cove at one of the southernmost islands, Pulau Dayang Bunting. Our quiet bay was surrounded on three sides by craggy limestone cliffs covered with trees and jungle foliage. A few monkeys wandered along a little crescent of sandy beach, and white-bellied sea eagles cruised overhead, ever on the lookout for a nice fish dinner. x

At sunset, we toasted our passage with the last of our French wine, and concluded that we’re going to like Langkawi!

To see where we are, click on the “Map” tab. To see our pictures, click on the “Photos” tab. We can be reached at: sanddollar_n4ks@yahoo.com